Heading North
Having set out to observe the largest predators in Europe, somewhere in the boreal forests covering the “no man’s land” between the Finnish border and Russian territory, I was seduced immediately by the pull of the Great North, its fauna, its flora, its aura, and I returned to France with the awakening of an old dream in my heart: that of crossing the wild expanses of Alaska!
This dream is the opposite to my Amazonian adventures. From tropical to subarctic climates, from one forest to another, from monkeys, tapirs and jaguars to moose, beavers and bears. It is four years since I put an end to my Amazon expedition journal*. It seems that that the time to depart has once again arrived.
* ([IBBA L. (2022), Journal of expeditions in the Amazon, from the river to the ocean, from the ocean to the forest, Editions du Chemin des Crêtes, Péronnas, 238 p.])
It was at the beginning of 2023 that the ARKTOUROS project was born. With my acolyte Quentin, we will take to the road once again for a month and a half trip in the great wilderness, following the water. The main objective of the project will be to observe, photograph, describe and bear witness in our logbooks to life in the wild expanses of Alaska. To do this and in order to stay long enough to blend into nature, to understand it and feel it as it really is, we have chosen to go down part of the longest river in Alaska and the third longest river in North America: the Yukon. Springing up at the foot of the Llewellyn Glacier in Atlin Lake in British Columbia, the Yukon, which means “great river” (Yu-kun-ah) in the Athabascan Gwich’in language, flows 3,185 kilometres through Canada and Alaska before emptying into the Bering Sea.
While the plan is not to go down the entire river starting from its source, we plan to navigate a good portion of it by setting our departure point in Whitehorse, Canada.
First Impressions on the Yukon
On Monday, May 29, 2023, at 7:40 p.m., we began our first paddle strokes. From the very start, the wild surroundings captivated me. Unlike the dense Amazon rainforest, where the horizon is obscured by thick vegetation that seems to engulf the river, here the landscape unfolds with breathtaking views. Vast coniferous forests dominate the foreground, while distant mountain ranges, topped with snow-capped peaks, rise majestically.
Some riverbanks, oriented away from the sun, still hold patches of lingering snow. The river’s icy water quickly numbs my hands. However, the sight of a pair of bald eagles, soaring above and following our convoy before perching atop pine trees to observe us drifting along the current, helps me forget the biting cold.
A little farther along, two beavers scurry away as we approach, slapping their flat tails against the water’s surface, creating a sound that echoes both above and below the water. Alerted to possible danger, the other beavers swiftly retreat to their lodges—impressive structures of wood and earth on the riverbank, resembling well-organized domes with entrances hidden beneath the water.
The Flora and Fauna's rythm
Flowing with the rhythm of the river, where no two days are alike, I experienced countless animal sightings, human encounters, and both physical and mental challenges. Wind and rainstorms, equipment struggles, and personal reflections were constant companions. Along the way, I observed the effects of global warming, traveled through time as I explored diverse landscapes, and marveled at the geology and exceptional mineral formations.
All of this will fill the pages of my small logbook as I document nearly 2,571 kilometers of adventure over 45 unforgettable days.
Thanks to the wolves
From the fleeting glimpse into the deep gaze of a wild soul to the innocent and ethereal exchanges with the first peoples of the great river; from an unexpected face-to-face encounter that quickens the heartbeat, to the calm and clear conversations with the Indigenous people of the far north; from the enchantment of the first paddle stroke, so fluid and light, to the exhaustion of a body and mind worn down by days of cold and storms—my quest for untamed life in its purest form has led me to a profound internal reflection. This journey revealed to my travel journals far more beautiful and sincere insights than just a tale of perilous adventures at the world’s edge.
Thanks to the bears, wolves, moose, bald eagles, beavers, porcupines, bighorn sheep, squirrels, and salmon I encountered along the river;
Thanks to the Athabascan and Yupik peoples, to the various tribes that make up their cultures, and to the free spirits I met along the way;
Thanks to the “great river,” to the Yukon, and to the essence of Alaska… Now, the time spent in the vast wilderness must give way to the time of words, to writing. I can’t wait to share with you all the stories, the scenes, and the reflections born from this journey.
A heartfelt thanks to everyone who followed and supported this incredible adventure from near and far.
Interested in following the entire journey through Alaska? Ludovic has just released his new book, Adventures in Alaska: 2,571 Kilometers by Kayak on the Yukon River, published by Chemin des Crêtes! (In French)
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Arktouros – Yukon and Northern Territories
From the ancient Greek ἄρκτος (bear) and οὖρος (guardian), Arcturos or Arcturus is the brightest star in the northern Boötes constellation and one of the brightest in the northern hemisphere. A bright star with a red-gold/orange hue, it owes its name to its proximity and mythological connection with the constellations of the Great Bear (Ursa Major) and the Little Bear (Ursa Minor). The Arktouros Project is all about venturing into the heart of the distant and inaccessible lands of Alaska, observing exceptional fauna and flora, raising awareness among as many people as possible about the importance of its preservation, but also reconnecting with ourselves and the world around us.